Can I Do This Myself? Practical Maintenance Tips
Can I Do This Myself? Practical Maintenance Tips
A lot of building and maintenance jobs look simple at first.
Painting a door, fixing a wall, replacing a handle, adding a rail or patching damaged plaster can look like a quick easy job. But most problems happen because the preparation is skipped, the wrong product is used, or the job is rushed. Youtube is great for videos, but it can also make it look simple, plaster trowels can be a beast to use for the untrained.
This page is here to give practical, simple steps for common maintenance jobs so you can work out what you can do yourself and when it may be better to call someone.
First Practical Tip:
Can I Paint a Door Myself?
Yes, you can paint a door yourself, but it is not just a matter of opening a tin of paint and brushing or rolling it on.
A good painted door depends on preparation.
Step 1 — Check the door first
Before buying paint, check the door properly.
Ask yourself:
Is the door timber, MDF, metal or already painted?
Is the old paint peeling, bubbling or cracking?
Is the surface glossy?
Is the door dirty, greasy or dusty?
Are there dents, holes or damaged edges?
Does the door rub on the frame?
Is it an internal door or an external door exposed to weather?
Is it a normal door, a security door, a metal door or a fire-rated door?
If the door is damaged, dirty or glossy, paint will not stick properly unless it is prepared first.
Step 2 — Decide if the door should come off
You can paint a door while it is still hanging, but it is usually easier to get a better finish if the door is removed and laid flat.
Removing the door also gives you a better chance to repair or replace hinges, fix damaged edges, sand properly and paint the top and bottom edges.
If you need to change hinges, there are two common types used on many doors:
Hirline hinges
Butt hinges
A Hirline hinge is commonly used on lighter internal hollow-core doors. It folds into itself and usually does not need to be recessed into the door and frame.
A butt hinge is generally used for heavier doors, external doors and security doors. A butt hinge usually needs to be recessed into both the door and the door frame with a chisel or router so the hinge sits flush.
The correct hinge depends on the weight of the door, the type of door, how it opens, and how much load the hinges need to carry.
Simple rule:
Light internal door = Hirline hinge may be suitable.
Heavy front, back or security door = butt hinge is usually the stronger option.
If you leave the door hanging, make sure it can stay open without touching anything.
Use a door stop, wedge, or a folded piece of cardboard pushed under the door to hold it steady while you work.
Remove or tape up handles, locks, hinges and door stops before painting.
Step 3 — Clean the door
Do not paint over dirt, grease, dust or hand marks.
Wash the door with sugar soap or a suitable cleaner.
Pay extra attention around handles because this is where doors usually collect hand grease.
Let the door dry fully before sanding or painting.
If you sand a wet or greasy door, the sandpaper can clog and the paint may not stick properly.
Step 4 — Sand the surface
Most painted doors need sanding before repainting.
You do not need to sand all the paint off unless the old coating is badly failing.
You are sanding to remove shine, smooth rough areas and help the new paint stick.
This is called keying the surface, and it is very important.
Simple sanding rule:
80 grit = heavy sanding, rough paint, damaged areas or old thick brush marks.
120 grit = normal preparation before repainting.
180 grit = smoother finish before painting.
240 grit = light sand between coats if you want a finer finish.
For most painted doors, start with 120 grit.
If there is peeling paint, heavy brush marks or rough edges, use 80 grit only on those rough areas first, then finish with 120 grit.
Before the final coat, a light sand with 180 to 240 grit can give a smoother finish.
After sanding, wipe the door down to remove all dust.
Do not leave sanding dust on the door. Paint and dust do not work together.
Step 5 — Fill dents and damage
Use a suitable filler for holes, dents and damaged edges.
Let the filler dry properly.
Sand it smooth before painting.
If the filler shrinks, you may need a second coat of filler.
If you paint over dents, rough filler or chipped edges, the paint will usually make the damage stand out more.
Simple rule:
Paint does not hide bad preparation. It usually makes bad preparation easier to see.
Step 6 — Understand oil paint, acrylic paint and enamel paint
This is where a lot of people get caught.
Not all paint is the same.
A normal wall acrylic is not usually the best paint for a door.
Doors get touched, knocked, wiped, opened and closed. They need a tougher finish than a normal wall.
Oil-based enamel
Oil-based enamel was commonly used for doors, trims, skirting boards and frames because it dries hard and is durable.
It can give a tough finish, but it smells stronger, takes longer to dry, and can yellow over time, especially inside.
If you paint water-based paint straight over old oil-based enamel without proper preparation and primer, the new paint may not stick properly.
Water-based acrylic
Normal wall acrylic is usually made for walls and ceilings.
It is easy to use and dries quickly, but it may not be tough enough for doors, trims, frames or high-touch areas.
If you use normal wall paint on a door, it can mark, chip or wear faster.
Water-based enamel / Aqua enamel
Aqua enamel is a water-based enamel-style paint.
It is commonly used for doors, trims, skirting boards and frames.
It is easier to clean up than oil-based paint, usually smells less, dries faster, and is tougher than normal wall acrylic.
For most internal doors, a good water-based enamel or aqua enamel is usually a better choice than normal wall paint.
Simple paint rule:
Walls = wall acrylic.
Doors, trims and frames = enamel or aqua enamel.
Old oil-based enamel = sand properly and use the correct primer/undercoat before applying water-based enamel.
External doors = use a paint system suitable for weather exposure.
If you are not sure whether the old paint is oil-based or water-based, ask at a proper paint shop or do a small test before painting the whole door.
Step 7 — Use the right primer or undercoat
Some doors need primer or undercoat.
You may need primer or undercoat if:
The door is bare timber.
The door is MDF.
The old paint is peeling.
You are painting over a dark colour.
You are painting metal.
You have filled or repaired areas.
You are changing from oil-based paint to water-based paint.
The door is external and exposed to weather.
The surface is stained, marked or patchy.
Using the wrong paint system can cause peeling, poor coverage, flashing, rough finish or poor adhesion.
Simple rule:
If the surface is bare, repaired, stained, glossy, metal, or old oil-based paint, do not skip the primer/undercoat.
Step 8 — Paint in the right order
Do not just slap paint on anywhere.
Start with the edges and detailed areas first.
Then paint the flat sections.
If the door has panels, paint the inside moldings and panel details first, then the rails and stiles, then the larger flat areas.
Do not overload the brush or roller.
Thin coats are better than one thick coat.
A thick coat can run, sag, stay soft, or take too long to dry.
Simple rule:
Two thinner coats usually look better than one heavy coat.
Step 9 — Use the right tools
For a basic door, you may need:
Drop sheet.
Screwdriver.
Painter’s tape.
Door wedge or door stop.
Sugar soap or cleaner.
Sanding block or orbital sander.
80, 120, 180 and 240 grit sandpaper.
Filler and filling blade.
Primer or undercoat if required.
Paint brush for edges and details.
Small roller for flat areas.
Paint tray.
Clean rags.
If you use cheap brushes, dirty rollers or old paint, do not expect a professional finish.
Step 10 — Allow proper drying time
Do not rush the second coat.
Follow the drying time on the paint tin.
Cold weather, wet weather and poor airflow can slow drying.
If you paint the second coat too early, the finish can drag, mark, peel or stay soft.
Do not close the door too early.
Paint can stick to the frame if the door is shut before it has hardened.
Step 11 — Check the finish before putting hardware back
Before putting handles, locks and fittings back on, check that the paint is dry enough to handle.
If the door was removed, do not rehang it too early or the edges may stick to the frame.
Check that the door still opens and closes properly.
If the door rubs on the frame, the fresh paint can scrape off.
Common mistakes
Painting over a dirty door.
Not sanding glossy paint.
Using normal wall paint instead of enamel or aqua enamel.
Painting water-based paint over old oil-based enamel without proper preparation.
Using the wrong primer.
Putting paint on too thick.
Closing the door before the paint is dry.
Painting over damage instead of filling it.
Not checking whether the door rubs on the frame.
Not removing or taping handles and hinges properly.
Using cheap tools and expecting a clean finish.
When should you call someone?
You may be better off calling a tradesperson if:
The door is badly damaged.
The frame is rotten.
The door will not close properly.
Paint keeps peeling.
The door is external and exposed to weather.
The door is metal.
The door is fire-rated.
The door needs new hinges fitted.
The frame needs repair.
You need a clean professional finish.
You are not sure whether the old paint is oil-based.
Simple rules
If the door only needs a light sand, clean and repaint, you may be able to do it yourself.
If the door needs repairs, special primer, weather protection, hinge work, adjustment or a high-quality finish, it may be worth getting help.
Never Never Never use cheap paint, believe me, from experience better paint = much better job. WHY? Cheap paint, $2 shop etc is full of fillers and you can put 10 coats on, and it will look unprofessional.
I use Dulux, Taubman's, Haymes there are others but these are what I use, they are not cheap, but I know quality and the finish I will get, so, I know the customer will be happy. Happy customer, I get paid. Happy household, everyone wins. We’ll leave the rest to your imagination
LMX Building Maintenance can assist with door repairs, painting, access works, handrails, ramps, bathroom modifications and general maintenance across Melbourne and surrounding areas.